Time to shake things up
26.03.2010 - 26.03.2010
Hasankeyf is an ancient city now in ruins built into the cliffs above the Tigris River, and it's beautiful and amazing and I'll let the photos tell the story when I get them uploaded.
My story is this: I'm a crappy tourist. I bus around, admire the sites, and then think, now what? Just being a tourist is too passive for me. I hate watching life. I want to be part of life. And sure that's a challenge when you only know a couple dozen words of the language, but I just can't hang wandering around smiling and taking pictures and calling that a day.
So tomorrow I reverse my tracks. I'm heading back to Mardin to stay with an acquaıntance from İstanbul whom I missed on my first round. Then, hopefully, on Sunday I join Alison of Nomadic Tours for, per her email, a walk to a nomadic camp, a Yezidi shrine, and some mysterious stone circle type ruins.
My flight leaves from Antakya & I can't change it, so I still need to keep working my way west and south. Ideally, this second week I'll be more of a participant and less a witness to this world.
(Basic travelogue details: after getting locked in the mansion most of the afternoon I emjoyed one last home cooked meal. A group of Germans arrived at the konağı, and I had a pleasant night drinking Suriani wine and talking politics with them. In the morning I caught a dolmuş to Midyat. A group of İstanbul travellers got on who had just backpaked through Syria, Jordan, and Lebanon. Their leader reminded me of a hippy college professor. Got off in Hasankeyf, spent a couple hours exploring the ruins above the river, and now the sun is heading down and it's time to grind).